Watchdives WD1980 WCW RN300 homage

This watch is a faithful homage to one of the most iconic British military divers ever issued — a design with serious history and enduring appeal. And there’s even a strong opinion out there that if James Bond were a real agent, this would be the kind of watch he’d most likely wear, rather than a flashy Omega or Rolex. At first glance it might look like a simple, no-nonsense tool watch… but don’t be fooled. We’ve got sapphire crystal up top, surprisingly strong lume, and bezel action that honestly rivals divers I’ve tested at two or even three times the price. So, for what seems like a very straightforward diver, there’s actually a lot to unpack here.

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Design

I initially called this a homage to the vintage Omega Seamaster. But this watch is in fact a much closer homage to the CWC Royal Navy Diver, the official issue piece worn by the British military for decades, and while some versions of the original CWC used mineral glass or even acrylic crystals — likely due to military spec requirements — Watchdives didn’t hold back here. We’ve got a full stainless steel case paired with sapphire up top, all at a price that’s honestly ridiculous for what you’re getting. And there’s one more material surprise that genuinely caught me off guard — we’ll get to that when we cover the bezel.

It’s worth noting that CWC themselves still produce reissues of that very watch today. They offer both quartz and automatic versions with the SW200-1 movement — Swiss made, high precision, and very faithful to the originals. But here’s the catch: the quartz model comes in at around $700 to $900, while the automatic will set you back closer to $2,000. So we’re definitely not talking about budget territory here.

Now, when we look a bit closer, there are some key differences between this homage and the official CWC reissue. The military-spec Royal Navy Diver famously uses fixed lugs — a very purposeful choice, since it was designed to be worn exclusively on NATO-style straps. That’s not the case here. The WD1980 goes with conventional spring bars, which means you’ve got far more flexibility in terms of straps and bracelets.

Another difference is water resistance. The original spec called for 300 meters, which the CWC models still deliver today. The WD1980 doesn’t quite reach that same depth rating, but it still offers a solid and practical level of water resistance for day-to-day use.

And interestingly, where this Watchdives version actually goes a step further is with its bezel. Unlike the plain aluminum inserts you’d find on the originals, this one includes lume on the bezel — a very welcome upgrade that adds nighttime functionality without straying too far from the military tool-watch aesthetic.

And here’s a fun twist. There’s a fairly popular opinion floating around that if James Bond — the fictional agent we all know — were a real person, he’d be far more likely to be issued a watch like this than some flashy Omega or Rolex.

Dimensions

In terms of dimensions, the case measures just under 40 millimeters across, but if you go by the bezel — which really defines the visual footprint — it comes in at 39 millimeters. Thickness is impressively slim at just 9.7 millimeters, making this a very easy watch to wear day to day. Lug-to-lug is 45 millimeters, so it stays nicely compact on the wrist, and the lug width is 20 millimeters, keeping strap options wide open. These proportions make it a versatile fit for a broad range of wrist sizes. On the supplied strap, the watch weighs in at 68 grams — quite lightweight and very wearable.

Case

The WD1980 features a full stainless steel construction, finished in a very utilitarian style. On top we’ve got circular brushing, with longitudinal brushing along the case flanks. The lugs, however, bring a touch of refinement — they’re twisted with a high-polished chamfer, which actually echoes elements of the vintage Omega Seamaster 300. That’s what initially threw me off during the unboxing, but here it’s more of a subtle design nod than a direct copy.

We also have prominent crown guards protecting a signed screw-down crown, which operates smoothly with clean threading. Around back, the case is sealed with a sterile screw-down case back, finished with circular brushing and polished chamfered edges.

All together, you’d expect this to support a fairly robust depth rating. But interestingly, Watchdives only declares 100 meters of water resistance here. In my view, that’s still perfectly adequate for everyday use — swimming, skin diving, or general water activities

Crystal

Up top, the WD1980 uses a perfectly flat sapphire crystal. It sits just a fraction of a millimeter above the bezel, so not completely flush, but very close. Legibility is excellent thanks to an underside anti-reflective coating that keeps reflections well under control, even in bright light. High marks here — it’s a well-executed crystal with nothing to complain about.

Dial & Lume

Looking at the dial, and there’s actually another a bit of a surprise waiting here — and you’ll see exactly what I mean in my 15-minute lume test coming up at the end of this segment.

In terms of layout, it’s very well executed and nicely balanced. No points for originality — this is a faithful military-style diver aesthetic — but it doesn’t feel cluttered or overwhelming. Everything is printed cleanly, with an updated logo and two lines of text at the bottom for balance. If I had to nitpick, the hour and minute hands could be just a touch longer, though changing that might upset the balance. The second hand, however, is perfectly proportioned.

Now onto that lume surprise. At this price point, I honestly didn’t expect much, but the performance is excellent. The markers and hands charge quickly and glow brightly, easily outshining many divers I’ve reviewed at two or even three times the cost. The only caveat is that the bezel lume isn’t quite as strong as the dial, but that’s a compromise I’m willing to forgive given the overall results.

Strap

On the strap side, there are no surprises. The WD1980 comes on a straightforward NATO-style nylon strap. The hardware is basic, and while the buckle finishing doesn’t quite match the case finishing, that’s really nitpicking at this price point. The stitching on the keepers is clean, and overall, it does the job without fuss.

Wearability

Thanks to the slim 9.7-millimeter case height, the watch also avoids the extra bulk that NATO straps sometimes add, keeping it comfortable and well-balanced on the wrist. And with a 20-millimeter lug width, we’ve got plenty of options. But even with the supplied strap I think it looks great on the wrist and wears easily and keeps with the military tool-watch vibe.

Verdict

So finally, let’s talk about the price. If you haven’t checked already, this watch can be found for around $65 to $70 before tax — which is honestly mind-blowing. For that, you’re getting a sapphire crystal, outstanding lume, and yes, a fully lumed sapphire bezel insert with action that rivals watches several times the cost.

Add in the slim case, wearable dimensions, and the dependable Seiko mecha-quartz movement, and what you have here is a watch that punches massively above its weight. Sure, the strap is nothing to write home about, and water resistance is capped at 100 meters, but those feel like small compromises when you look at the overall package.

At this price, it’s hard to think of another diver that delivers quite this much.

Bezel

Now onto the bezel — and this is where things get really interesting. Honestly, when I first tried it, I had to double-check the price of this watch. The action is excellent — tight, precise, and without that springy, cheap feel you often get in this price range. In fact, it’s one of the best bezels I’ve ever handled on a watch at this level.

But that’s only half the story. The bezel is fully lumed, which we’ll see clearly in the lume test alongside the dial. And here’s the real shocker: the insert isn’t aluminum, it isn’t ceramic — it’s sapphire. Yes, a sapphire lumed bezel at this price point. It’s an upgrade I genuinely didn’t expect, and it easily puts this watch in competition with pieces costing two or three times as much.

Movement

Now, another interesting twist here is the movement choice. Watchdives went with the Japanese Seiko VH31 “mecha-quartz,” sometimes called a sweep quartz. It’s a clever hybrid because it combines the aesthetics of a mechanical watch — thanks to its ticking four times per second, giving you that smooth sweeping second hand — with all the practical benefits of quartz.

So, you’re looking at more than two years of battery life, excellent accuracy, and virtually zero maintenance. And importantly, it’s a no-date caliber, which means no ghost crown position and a cleaner execution overall. That really suits the military tool-watch character of this piece.