A Proper In-House Diver That’s Cheaper Than San Martin?! 😳

I’ve been waiting to get my hands on this one for a long time—and finally, it’s here. This is the Seagull Ocean Series 1523, an original in-house diver from one of China’s oldest and most respected watch manufacturers. No homages here—this is Seagull’s own design, powered by their own automatic movement. And while this watch has been around for a few years now, it still feels like something special. In fact, I’d go as far as to say this might just be my grail diver from China. So what is it that makes this watch stand out from the rest? Well, we’ve got it here—let’s find out!

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Design

So, there is a newer, slightly more compact version out now that costs almost double, but I wanted to go hands-on with the original. And after wearing it for a few days, I’ve got quite a bit to say. Design-wise, this watch hits that sweet spot between purposeful tool watch and refined daily diver. The 1523 is unmistakably Seagull’s own creation—it’s not copying anyone, and that’s refreshing to see in a market that’s full of lookalikes. The dial is what first catches your eye: a rich navy blue with a subtle sunburst effect that plays beautifully with the light. It’s elegant without being flashy. The applied hour indices are crisp and clean, each polished to a mirror finish. And sitting just above six o’clock is a small, applied gold star—a tasteful nod to Seagull’s heritage and the brand’s logo.

The hands are syringe-shaped—precise and distinctive—with polished finishes that complement the applied indices. The seconds hand has a bright red tip, adding a small but effective pop of color. The date window at three o’clock is nicely framed and actually looks even better in person than on camera. The date is very legible thanks to the magnifier aka cyclops - which is, by the way, made out of Sapphire.

And at the bottom of the dial, where we would normally see “Swiss Made,” this one proudly says Made in China”. So, it is not even trying to pretend to be anything else. It’s a statement of identity—and one Seagull has earned through decades of consistent watchmaking.

Dimensions

Looking at dimensions, this Ocean Series Diver measures 43.7 millimeters across, 12.7 millimeters thick, and about 50 millimeters lug-to-lug. Include the solid end links, and the effective wingspan jumps to around 55 millimeters, so yes make no mistake —this is a substantial diver.

On the supplied bracelet, it weighs 199 grams in full length. After sizing it for my 7-inch wrist—removing five links, which is just under two inches of bracelet length—the weight dropped to 173 grams, making it far more comfortable for daily wear.

The stainless steel bracelet is quite generous and should cover wrists up to about nine inches. However, with 6 removable links - three on each side, we are somewhat limited when it comes to bracelet sizing. So, if your wrist is under six and a half inches, you might struggle to get a snug fit. One option is swapping the bracelet for the included Zulu-style nylon strap, which makes it much more manageable for slimmer wrists. Not an ideal compromise, but still workable.

Case

The case finishing here is excellent - far better than you might expect at this price. The entire watch feels rock solid and impressively refined, easily on par with mid-level Swiss divers. You can really sense Seagull’s experience in manufacturing—it’s that combination of precision machining and thoughtful detailing that gives the timepiece its premium feel.

There’s brushed finishing on the top of the lugs and along the sides of the case, complemented by a high-polished bevel running along the upper lug edges. The result is a dynamic surface that catches light nicely.

The crown guards are neatly integrated, protecting a screw-down crown that’s moderately sized but easy to operate. Threading is smooth, grip is good, and the crown is signed with Seagull’s logo.

Turning the case over, and the screw-on caseback is another highlight—it’s embossed with Seagull’s “star rising from the ocean” emblem, finished with what looks like an enamel or ceramic infill that gives it real visual depth. The perimeter is engraved with all the key specs, and the overall impression is one of quality and confidence.

Despite its large footprint, the case wears comfortably thanks to downward-curving lugs that hug the wrist. Even the protruding end links are shaped to flow with the case profile, helping it sit securely without overhang.

And yes—this is a true diver’s watch, offering 200 meters of water resistance with that screw-down crown and solid screw-on caseback construction.

Crystal

On top, we’ve got a flat sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating that performs really well. As I always do I also checked the cyclop with my diamond tester and sure enough it is made out of Sapphire as well, which is great. The cyclop is well aligned and provides good date magnification with minimal distortion. The combination of both sapphire elements gives this watch excellent scratch resistance and a premium look

Dial & Lume

Returning to the dial - and Seagull’s execution here is top notch. The subtle sunburst texture brings real depth and visual movement, shifting from deep navy to lighter tones under different lighting.

The applied indices are well finished, giving a crisp and modern aesthetic. And the overall layout is clean and balanced—no clutter, no unnecessary text. Just the essentials.

As for the lume—it’s strong, evenly applied, and glows with real intensity. I’m not sure exactly what compound Seagull used here, but it performs very well, holding its brightness well into my standard 15-minute lume test. Possibly not Seiko diver level lume, however still sufficient enough to be practical.

Bracelet and Clasp

The Oyster-style bracelet here is equally impressive. It’s a solid-link, solid end-link stainless steel bracelet that feels every bit as robust as the watch head itself. Integration with the case is excellent, and the end links curve down nicely to follow the wrist’s contour.

It is finished with brushed tops and polished sides that match the case finishing perfectly. The 22-millimeter lug width slightly tapers down to 20mm toward the clasp, balancing the proportions nicely.

Links are connected with pins, which are easy to size and solid in practice. The clasp has milled inner scissor mechanism and double-pusher deployant design with a fold-over safety lock and three micro-adjust holes. It’s also signed, feels sturdy, and locks securely.

There’s no on-the-fly adjustment, but at this price point, it’s hard to complain. The bracelet feels stable, substantial, and complements the prominent watch head very well—making this diver feel planted on the wrist and not top-heavy.

Wearability

Once sized for my 7-inch wrist, this Ocean Series sits with real presence. The case hugs the wrist thanks to those curved lugs, and the overall balance feels spot-on. The reduced weight—173 grams sized—lands right in that sweet spot where you feel the quality without any fatigue.

That said, anyone with a slimmer than 6.5 inch wrist may find it a bit of a challenge to get a snug fit, due to how many links can be removed and the larger wingspan. In that case, the included Zulu-style strap is a great alternative—it changes the character of the watch completely, lightens the feel, and gives it that proper utilitarian diver vibe. For me, it wears exactly how I hoped—bold, confident, but surprisingly comfortable for a 44-millimeter diver.

Verdict

After wearing it for a while, I can say this watch was absolutely worth the wait. The Seagull Ocean Series 1523 is an original, in-house diver that feels genuinely premium—very well finished, solidly built, and powered by Seagull’s own automatic movement. The specs speak for themselves: sapphire crystal with AR, 200m water resistance, strong lume, and a robust bracelet that balances the case perfectly. Yes, the polished bezel edge could use more grip, and slimmer wrists may prefer the included Zulu strap—but otherwise, it’s outstanding value at around $280. And that “China Made” on the dial says it all—this is Seagull showing what they’re capable of, and for me, it easily earns its place as my grail Chinese diver.

Bezel

We get here a 120-click unidirectional bezel, just as we would expect on a proper diver. The action is tight and consistent, with very little backplay. The bezel features an aluminum insert with all the appropriate markings. It has a satin like finish and it is nicely colour matched to the dial. Aluminum isn't the most scratch resistant option, but the Super Popular $4000 Tudor Black Bay 58 diver still has a very similar aluminium insert so I'm not going to judge this Seagull very harshly over it either.

However, I do have one minor criticism here: the bezel grip is high-polished, which looks lovely and adds some sparkle, but it can be a touch slippery when trying to rotate it. Thankfully, the bezel stands slightly proud of the case, which provides just enough surface to grip and turn it more or less comfortably.

The alignment is here spot on and the lume triangle at 12 o’clock is flush rather than protruding, which not only looks neat but also means it’s less likely to get damaged. So overall a well set and good looking bezel.

Movement

Powering this diver is the Seagull ST2130—an in-house automatic caliber based on the ETA 2824-2 architecture. It runs at 28,800 vibrations per hour, has 28 jewels, and offers around 38 hours of power reserve.

Now, I’ve tested a few watches using this movement before, and I believe it is one of the better 2824-style implementations out there. Winding is smooth, the rotor is quiet, and accuracy on my sample has been very good.

What’s great about this movement is that, it’s fully manufactured by Seagull in-house. That’s something you rarely see at this price point. It’s reliable, easily serviceable, and, frankly, a reminder that Seagull is a watch movement manufacturing power house.